... a bit Suffolk
G15 Technical Guide - chassis
Construction: Rear engine, rear wheel drive, all independent suspension, tubular steel frame (ie square tube/sheet steel), glass reinforced plastic body.
Constructed from 2" and 1.5" box section steel with the sheet steel reinforcing at the rear. The sheet steel is either 10G or 1/8" plate. Some late cars have steel strip to strengthen the front turrets rather than the (1" top and 1.5" angle) supporting plates of earlier cars.
Early cars had taller front suspension turrets requiring a larger spring damper unit. Flat wishbone parts are the same.
Early cars had rear engine mounts flush with the chassis and the Imp engine mounting supported by four 1" spacers with long bolts. Later cars had the mounting raised 1", no spacers and normal length bolts. Some owners will find a slot cut in the mounting plate, this will have been done to facilitate engine removal.
A standard Imp rear suspension cross member is welded to the frame. Early cars had two strengthening plates welded to the wishbone pivot brackets. Later cars have four, reducing the tendency of the cross member to crack at the top of the inboard pivot points.
Apart from the chassis plate, usually fitted to the body in the engine compartment, the chassis number is stamped onto the chassis in the cross member immediately behind the rear engine support.
If your car has the original chassis regularly check the longitudinal rear members, top chassis cross mounts/spring mounts/damper mounts.
Strengthen the top of the suspension turrets where the shock absorber spigot comes through as this area is often domed up.
Triangulate front suspension wishbone tabs.
Triangulate where the front, upward sloping part of the main chassis joins the central rectangular section.
Tube the body mounting/seatbelt holes to prevent the chassis crushing when the bolts are done up tight.
Tube the cooling pipe holes unless you are using grommets.
Larger plates for the seatbelt mounts.
G15 Technical Guide - bodywork
Approximately 120 cars exist with the small rear window. Chassis numbers are not an accurate guide. Large rear window cars exist before chassis no. 120 for instance.
Type 1 cars in the register should really be types 1 and 1A as the very early cars have major differences from most of the cars we call type 1. The early cars have a modified pedal box with a different body moulding at the bulkhead. The last car known like this is G15/0158. Early cars also have a detachable radiator/intake support (i.e. except the very few early cars with radiators fitted as per Imp at the rear).
Bodies: therefore are types 1, 1A, 2, 3 and 4. Major variations being the rear quarter window size and the front side light/indicator light siting, the front bumper and the door handle arrangement (see John Rose's book).
Bonnet: three types. Variations are for the type of filler cap. Very early - no hole. Most of type 1 - round hole. All flip-up caps have a shaped hole.
Boot lid (engine cover): all the same, hinges are Imp (chrome). Imp rear locks with the body fittings made by Ginetta.
Headlamp pods: all the same.
Doors: Early with MGB handles and 'wire' restraint catch. Late with Marina/Lotus/Range Rover handles and proper restraint catch. Door hinge fitting and adjustment
Bumpers There are two different front bumpers (apart from Ginetta's air dam assembly). Both are adapted early Beetle (rear) bumpers. Early cars had no middle buffer strip - the only difference therefore is the cut-down length. The rear bumper is Riley Elf and not Wolseley Hornet which had over riders (although this will fit).
Screens: These are special. The rear screen incidentally is not flat as standard. Side screens originally 3/16" Perspex, but now use 4mm, with Mini fittings
Removal and refitting - Open the roof to the halfway position and get an assistant to hold it steady on one side, whilst you pull the other side forwards to detach the nylon sliders from their runners. Repeat this procedure until all the sliders are free. Unscrew and remove the four retaining screws and then lift the roof panel clear. Refit in reverse order.
Should adjustment be necessary proceed as follows:
Panel fabric can be tensioned by means of the four screws. Loosen them and adjust as necessary in the elongated holes, then retighten the screws.
If the roof is stiff in operation apply some silicon lubricant on the runners.
Sliding roof catch - removal and refitting. Remove the sliding panel as described in the previous section. Pull each end of the front listing rail from the fabric and the fabric from the box section.
Unscrew and remove the two retaining screws and lift the metal section away.
Refit in reverse order.
All the above details were taken direct from the workshop manual. With Ginettas being what they are we're sure yours will probably be different in some respect.